Frequently Asked Questions

In most cases, existing siding should be removed before new siding is installed; particularly if the new siding is James Hardie fiber cement.  This will allow for better inspection of the underlying structure and assure that there is no water damage or rotting.  James Hardie requires 7/16″ thick sheathing and existing panel siding that can be used as sheathing if it complies. If the existing siding is warped, it will need to be removed.  If you are replacing the existing siding with vinyl siding, in more cases it does not have to be removed.

Because James Hardie does not have R-value, it is not insulating.  We can add fiberglass insulation in the wall, or rigid insulation on top of sheathing and there are niche moisture barriers that do have an R-value.

Battens are vertical trim strips placed on panel siding at regular intervals to cover joints and create an architectural aesthetic. Battens are used to create a modern farmhouse look. Most commonly, they are spaced 16″ on center (OC) to cover face nails on the underlying panel; additionally, this allows the nails to penetrate into studs. Battens can be placed at other distances or spacing, but the sheathing needs to be a structural nail base for the fasteners.

Soffits are the covering that forms a ceiling on the underside of the roof in the area that extends beyond the walls of a home.  Soffits cover the gap between the wall and the fascia.   A fascia is a band on the front section that runs horizontally under the edge of a roof as well as along the angled rooflines, which are called rakes. On a house, it is the fascia that usually caps the ends of rafters and sometimes holds the gutter.

Frieze board is a type of trim that is typically installed between the top of a home’s siding and the soffit. A Frieze board may also be used as a decorative, horizontal trim anywhere on the home. It can be functionally necessary in some cases, which can be evaluated at a site inspection from a siding professional. Keep in mind, frieze board is a general term and is not tied to an exact product. It could be pre-finished metal in some cases, wood trim or fiber cement trim boards in other areas.

There are two ways to secure lap siding to the wall — Face and Blind nailing. Face nailing is a matter of simply hammering in nails, and the nail heads are visible. The fastener drives through the overlap at the bottom of the plank. Blind nailing is when the fastener drives through the top of the plank and conceals the heads; creating a more pleasant effect.

Siding exposure is the visible space between the bottoms of adjacent rows of siding. Exposure differs from the total height of your siding planks because rows of siding will slightly overlap each other during installation. It’s most often used to describe lap siding, where each piece of siding is lapped between 1″ and 1.25″ over the piece below it. The amount of exposure can vary, but the most common exposure, such as with James Hardie siding, is 7″.

House wrap is a weather barrier that covers a structure’s exterior prior to siding installation, between the sheathing and exterior cladding. A house wrap, or air/moisture barrier, stops moisture and resists drafts from entering your house, while allowing water vapor to escape. There are varying qualities of air/moisture barriers, and even options that carry an R-value.

A gable is the triangular section of wall between two intersecting sloping sides of a dual-pitched roof. Gables can be the same size or different sizes, depending on your home. In some cases, typically for larger homes, two or more gables can be joined together with flatter roofing styles to add more depth to the property.

As we all know, hail damage is a part of life in Colorado. If you have sustained hail damage to your siding, here are a few steps towards replacement:

• Check for hail damage & collateral damage to your Siding, Windows, Screens, Roof, and Personal Property.
• Call your insurance company and schedule an appointment with an insurance adjuster. This will help determine the exact scope of work for your project and how much your insurance company is willing to compensate you.
• Call 5280 Exteriors at 720-707-6964 to schedule your free estimate!

Assuming you have wood siding, you’re able to replace a few paces for a short-term fix. There are disadvantages though, it’s likely that there could be residual damage to the surrounding siding.

The downfall to engineered woods originates in two facets:

• It’s a high maintenance product – and if not painted on a regular basis – it will rot and warp
• Most homes that were built with engineered wood siding were built during a time when building code did not require a house wrap. In climates in areas such as Colorado and Minnesota, frost accumulates on the sheathing during fall nights and then condenses mid-morning – and engineered wood takes on the moisture on the back side of the board. In some circumstances, your wood siding can rot from the back side of the board, regardless of how much you paint.

If you replace full sides of the house:

• You can install an air/moisture barrier that will reduce the effects of freeze-thaws. Unfortunately, you cannot properly install a house wrap if you only replace individual pieces.
• You can bring your flashings up to current building code and reduce the likelihood of water leaks.
• You can also improve your home’s ability to block drafts around windows and penetrations. When you install a new house wrap, you will also install EPDM tape around windows, which will prevent drafts around your window openings
• If you do the full house, you can upgrade your siding product such as fiber cement, and prevent these issues moving forward.

In terms of wood siding, there are a few indications that will tell you if replacement is needed.

First, it’s important to know that if wood siding is retaining water, the paint will not last on the surface. Paint manufacturers void their warranty if their paint is applied to a surface that has too high of a moisture content. Your paint can then peel as soon as 2-4 weeks after the new paint is applied. Don’t waste your money trying to take the risk and paint wood that needs replacing.

Indications that wood siding needs to be replaced:

• It’s warping
• If the nails look like they are “oversunk”, that’s unlikely. Most often, if the siding is not in great shape and the nails look oversunk, its likely that the siding is swelling beyond the nail line and there was nothing wrong with how the nails were installed. Nails go into the framing of the home, and most are ring shanked. This means they won’t back out, but the siding can swell beyond the face of the nail cracking.
• If you look on the lower edge of your lap siding, and you see cracking, that’s an indication that the board is swelling beyond its original size.

If you’ve deemed that you need replacement, refer to the previous FAQ question above (“I need to repair my siding, can I replace just a few pieces or do I need to replace a full side?”) to tell you if you should just replace a piece of it, or do a full side/house.

Ideally, with fiber cement, you purchase a pre-finished product such as James Hardie ColorPlus. If not, and you have primed or you’re looking to repaint a previously pre-finished fiber cement, it should be treated differently than applying paint to wood.

Fiber cement is built with Portland cement and can take paint at a varied rate. This means there’s a higher likelihood that the new paint will flash (sheen looks nice in one section and blotchy in another).

How to prevent the flashing:

• The best way is to add another primer coat, more often than not, another full primer coat will prevent any type of flashing.
• Another way is that you can use a product like Sherwin Williams Resilience, which dries from the sub straight out rather than traditional paint that dries from the outside towards the sub straight. This is a different cure process and tends to have a lower likelihood of resulting in a blotchy finish.
• In a perfect scenario, and especially if your finish coat is a dark color or if you have large walls facing West or South, you should use a full primer coat along with a finished paint coat like Resilience.

Absolutely, it can help the resale value of your home. Fiber cement siding, such as James Hardie, have nearly a 100% ROI, according to Remodelers Magazine. Please refer to Cost vs. Value analysis by Remodelers Magazine for more details. Fiber cement siding will also lower your homeowner’s insurance because it prevents flame spread, not to mention your savings in maintenance.

This can be difficult, and the best advice would be to call your local siding contractor to diagnose your current siding. Vinyl siding is easy to distinguish from engineered wood, natural wood, or fiber cement, but it can be difficult to recognize engineered wood siding from fiber cement. Fiber cement manufacturers, such as James Hardie, have the same architectural appearance as engineered wood, but at lower maintenance, more durable, and not susceptible to wood born insects or birds, all while limiting flame spread. Since those are hard to see visually, it may be a little difficult to know for sure.

Siding can range dramatically in price depending on the product.

• Vinyl siding – specifically hollow-backed – are on the lower pricing spectrum, ranging from $5 to $8 per square foot.
• Insulated vinyl is an upgrade because it’s more durable than the more cost-effective vinyl, and have added insulation value, it will range from $7 to $10 per square foot.
• Engineered wood can range from $9 to $18 per square foot, depending on primed or pre-primed finished.
• Fiber cement siding, such as James Hardie, can range from $10 to $14 per square foot for pre-finished siding, depending on the style.
• Natural woods – such as cedar and pine – can range dramatically and upwards above $20 per square foot, depending on the species of wood and the number of allowable knots in the wood.

This question is common inside the stucco world – it’s also known as synthetic vs traditional stucco.

• Synthetic is EFIS, which has insulation behind it, mesh, and then a finish coat. It’s energy efficient, but it can retain water if not flashed properly.
• Traditional is a hard coat system with paper, wire, brown, concrete coat, with an acrylic finish coat. It’s more breathable and lasts a long time without risk of water or problems like EFIS.

Here at 5280 Exteriors, we recommend traditional stucco, which is more commonly used in residential applications due to the reasons listed above.

The short answer is no. Almost every manufacturer (and building code) requires a clearance, which means the siding has to sit above either grade (soil) or slab (concrete, roof, or deck). For example:

• James Hardie requires a 2″ clearance on slab, and 6″ on grade.
• LP requires 1″ clearance on slab, and 6″ on grade.

There are a few manufacturers that claim there is no clearance needed, and they are usually PVC based products, but nothing has been tested over a long period of time. The reality is it’s not just that the water damages the products, it’s the freeze-thaws and the expansion rates that really damage the products. The only material tested over time that can sit below those clearance levels is metal. That’s why you should have metal flashing on your roof, and above your windows.

• A, being “clear” or free from knots.
• D (or utility) lumber will have more knots that is natural to its existing state.

Of course, this effects the design you are going for.  A or “clear”, vertical grains will result in a more contemporary look, without knots. and will be most structural strength.  D or utility lumber will have more knots, and will create a  more “rustic” look.

Consider:  when the product moves over time, the knots “can work their way” out of the board.  There are other factors that effect how the lumber is graded.  Western Red Cedar Lumber Association (WRCLA) is a great resource for lumber, grades and applications.

Window seals can fail for a number of reasons. When there is a sealant break where the spacer (the unit that connects two pieces of glass along the perimeter of the insulated glass unit) breaks, it can allow moisture and outside air to seep in, which can lead to a number of issues. These issues can include: fog or haze, drafts, broken glass, damaged frames or glass staining.

If you notice a seal failure or a broken seal on recently replaced windows that might be under warranty, the first step is to check with the installation company. If the seal failure is no longer under warranty, it may be time to replace your windows. Call 5280 Exteriors TODAY at 720-707-6964 to schedule a free estimate!

• Check for hail damage & collateral damage. Look for cracks, dents, or shattered glass. Take photos of all damage, both inside and outside.
• Call your insurance company and schedule an appointment with an insurance adjuster. This will help determine the exact scope of work for your project and how much your insurance company is willing to compensate you. If the window frame has cracks or is chipped, you will be looking at a full replacement. If the issue is only the glass or beading around the glass; you will need to work with a glazing company.
• If replacement is necessary, call 5280 Exteriors at 720-707-6964 to schedule your free estimate!

Glazing beads, also known as glazing strips or glazing bars, are pieces of wood, vinyl, or other materials that are installed around the perimeter of a window’s glass. They serve two purposes: to hold the glass in place and to help seal the window. They are solely cosmetic as the sealant under the glass provides the primary seal. Glazing beads are a replaceable part.

Solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC) is the amount of solar radiation admitted through a window or door. It is either transmitted directly and/or absorbed, and then released as heat inside a home. The lower the SHGC, the more heat it blocks from the outside. The SHGC number is typically between .2-.4

U-values measure how effective a material is as an insulator through a window or a given thickness of a material (such as insulation) with lower numbers indicating better insulating properties. The lower the U-Value number is, the more insulated the window is. The standard U-Value is .3 or less. For reference, a U-value is the inverse of an R-value.

R-value is the thermal resistance value based on a material’s properties and thickness. R-value measures how well building insulation can prevent the flow of heat into and out of the home. Higher R-value means greater insulation performance; meaning more savings on your next heating and cooling bill. The recommended R-value exterior walls is R-13 to R-23.

Argon gas is one of the most common gases used to fill the space between the panels of replacement windows. Argon is non-toxic, odorless, and clear. Argon is denser than air, which can help increase window energy efficiency. Argon gas does not conduct heat as well as air, so it can act as an added method of insulation. Argon gas also prevents frost from building up at the bottom of the window in cold weather.

If you have lived in Colorado for a while, you have noticed that we have more bright, sunny days more often than not. While the sun is great in so many ways, it can create a glare in your home. Replacement windows can help! Low-emissivity (low-E) windows have coatings that can reduce glare while still allowing natural light in. They can also block the sun’s heat and damaging rays, which can help keep your home comfortable and lower heating and cooling costs. This can be particularly helpful in your tv or family room so you can enjoy time with loved ones and still see the beautiful outdoors without the glare.

If you’re looking for energy-efficient windows for your home, you might want to consider low-emissivity glass, often referred to as simply, “Low E.” Made from metallic oxides, Low E coatings are so thin they’re transparent, which means natural light will still flow in. But, even though this feature is invisible, it works hard to control radiant heat, which keeps your home warmer in the cooler months and cooler in the warmer months. Ultimately, this helps maximize solar energy and lower your utility costs. When installing or replacing windows, make sure to discuss your home’s specific energy needs so that you can get the best Low E glass. Asking the right questions will help you save money and feel more comfortable in your home, year-round.

Casement windows are windows that have hinges on one side and swing outward to the left or right. They can be used alone or in pairs within a common frame. Casement windows are operated with a folding hand crank on the bottom of the frame. They are most often used in places where maximum ventilation is desired, such as a kitchen or a bathroom. Additionally;  there is not a middle meeting rail, which is the case with a slider or hung windows, so you can achieve maximum visible light. Screens are on the inside of the window for casements, since the sash opens to the exterior.

Slider windows move horizontally. Single sliders open right or left, which you can select. Based on your interior seating, it might be more convenient to have your slide rail on one side more than another. Double slider windows open in both directions; providing more flexibility and ease of interior cleaning due to the ability to lift the sashes inside. The sliding sashes glide on rollers to provide for smooth operation.

With a single hung window, the top sash (or glazed glass panel) is fixed, so you only open the window by lifting the bottom sash. A double hung window opens from both the top and bottom. The lower sash can slide up and the upper sash can slide down. The top sash of a double hung window can allow for hot air to vent out as well as provide privacy in a bathroom. An added bonus for the double hung window is that both the top and bottom sash tilt in for easy, interior cleaning, NO MORE LADDERS!

If you are looking for options, both our Anlin & Pella brands offer the single or double hung windows.<>

In Colorado, most homeowners use their heater more than the air conditioner. In fact, a lot of homeowners don’t utilize central air conditioning at all. Heating cooling costs peak in the heating months… the winter! Try to schedule your window replacement before the winter – sometime in the fall months. It’s a great time because you’re installing windows when you can save the save the most money.

If you’re behind the ball, don’t fret. Installation can still occur in the winter time. However, if it’s snowing or raining outside, we can’t install the windows. We have installed windows every winter because the beauty of Colorado is that we get sunny days even in the middle of the winter season.

• We’ll remove one window and set & insulate the new window shortly after removing the old one.
• We don’t remove all of the windows at once, only the number we know we can install by the end of the day.
• We lay drop clothes and rubber mats to prevent spreading mud or debris around the house

Energy efficient windows can save you anywhere from 10% to 40% on your heating and cooling costs. But, you definitely want to look at your home as the full envelope. That includes the wall and attic insulation, attic ventilation, etc. Windows are a part of your home’s energy envelope and maximum energy efficiency can be achieved by addressing all of these factors and more.

If your windows are drafty, it’s likely that you need to upgrade your windows. Drafty – or leaky – windows are either old and no longer have tight gaps, or they’re just simply poor quality. Be aware when buying new windows; you’ll find some great prices at box stores that state they are energy star rated, but a window can be energy star rated and still have moderate draft blocking features. Higher quality windows have lower AI (air infiltration) ratings; an energy star window can have a 0.3 AI, which means 30% of air gets through the window when there is a 45 mph wind. The higher quality windows can get as low as 0.06 AI, which means only 6% of air gets through the window during 45 mph winds.

Typically when someone says reseal a window, they mean reglaze, which is replacing the glass in an existing window. Reglazing a window can make sense in applications where there is broken glass, and the customer is looking for a short-term solution. You can save money by reglazing a window, but you achieve little besides replacing the fact that the glass is no longer broken, or the seal. More often than not, you can replace the full window at only a moderate price increase. With a new window, you can upgrade your energy efficiency, improved functionality, and a new warranty.

Energy Star windows are an upgrade to builder grade windows, including aluminum or steel windows. 95% of replacement windows meet Energy Star requirements, so if you want the top tier energy efficiency, you want to look for windows that have a low U-value (same as an R-value, but the inverse) and low AI ratings (refer to FAQ: “How do I know my windows are leaking?”). You can achieve the lowest U-value with heat mirror glass, which is a cutting-edge technology developed by NASA and a Top 100 Inventions of the Millennium by Popular Science. You can get the U-value as low as 0.1, where Energy Star only requires a 0.3 U-value.

Of course, you can always put the same window in. However, when you replace windows you have a great opportunity to modify your window openings to increase or decrease size. In terms of cost, it’s only a nominal increase in price to make the window opening smaller or taller (down to the floor, not upwards to the ceiling). If you want to make your window opening wider, or go further upwards towards the ceiling, it can cost a little bit more. The reason, is because you need a new header, so the wall around the opening needs all new framing – plus, you’ll need a structural engineering letter & permit. Increasing the size of each opening can provide more natural light to enter your home and add the “open feel” that so many are looking for.

Windows that are the best fit for Colorado are windows that can block some of the direct heat in the summer, increase the retention of heat in the winder, as well as allow some passive solar on those warm winter days to assist in warming of the home. Heat mirror technology (see FAQ: “Windows say they’re energy efficient – are all windows primarily the same in efficiency?”). Remember that windows that block the most heat from coming in the home are not the best for this climate; there needs to be balance. Passive solar is very important in the winter for reducing your heating costs, because the sun can help your furnace heat your home – saving money.

If you have significant damage, such as a roof leak or windows broken, you should call your insurance company immediately and file a claim. It’s also a good indicator if a significant number of your neighbors are getting repairs done and you see visible damage from the storm, go ahead and reach out to your insurance company to file a claim.

In the case where you know you’ve had a hail storm, you should call your local exterior expert – especially if your neighbors are actively getting repairs done.

We highly recommend contacting a local company instead of a storm chaser. Storms tend to bring out of state companies into your area and they don’t have any plans of sticking around after they’ve completed their work. This means two things:

• If you have a warranty claim a few years down the road, nobody will be there to service it.
• Since they don’t have a local reputation to hold up to, they don’t have any “skin in the game” and are less likely to perform quality work in your best interest.

Regardless if you choose us, we highly encourage using a local company to avoid the complications that occur from an out-of-state company.

Most homes have a few large roof slopes that can be viewed from the ground level. Although you’re not going to be able to get an up close view (or possibly even the side that has damage), you might be able to see if there is significant damage. Furthermore, if you see any shingles that have flown off the roof, that’s a strong indicator to either call your insurance company or local roofing experts. Lastly, granular loss can be a good indicator that the roof has been damaged, and if there’s significant damage, you’ll see roof granular at the bottom of your downspouts.

Without natural disasters, roofs should last 30-50 years depending on the product. Tile and stone coated steel roofs can last even longer than that.

The reality is that in markets like Colorado, you will have hail storms that limit the lifespan of the roof. Most often than not, the insurance company will be paying to replace your roof.

Some roof companies can provide a 5-Year Certification, which is often used in real estate transactions so the buyer knows that the roof will last 5 years after the transfer of the home.

Absolutely. However, sometimes we need different sized ladders, equipment, or an entirely different individual to stop by the home. If you have a 3-story home, be sure to let your roofing company know ahead of time before they come out – or else they may need to reschedule after they see the height of your roof.

A contract retainer in construction is a financial arrangement where a client pays a contractor, typically 90-95%, of the contract price for “substantial completion”, and withholds the remaining until all punch list or warranty items are complete, at which time the remaining amount or “retainer” comes due. Retainers in construction help protect the interests of both parties involved. For the client, it provides financial leverage until all small items are complete. For the construction company, it helps them to cover costs associated with the project and financially incentivizes them to complete all punch list and warranty items.

Sound Transmission Class (STC) is a rating system that measures how well a material in a home reduces noise. It is used to rate interior partitions, ceilings, floors, doors, and windows. An STC rating of 38-42 is standard soundproofing for a home. The higher the number the more sound deadening.

Of course, if it’s raining or snowing one day, we will wait and start the next day there is no precipitation. Otherwise, we can do every trade through the winter months.

• Roofing can be the toughest, because it’s hard to cut freezing shingles and there is a risk of installing when a storm hits.
• Siding can be installed a little easier – as the sealants we use can actually be applied under water!
• We can paint, as long as it’s above 35 degrees. Sherwin Williams has a product called Resilience that we use in moisture settings because it can be applied down to 35 degrees and up to a few hours before a rain storm.
• Windows can be installed year round, as the sealants we use can actually be applied under water – similar to siding.

Unfortunately, rain and snow delay everything. But lucky enough for us, we’re located in a state where it usually melts the next day or so, allowing us to continue to work on the project.

A punchlist is a document generated towards the end of a project. This punchlist is where the customer can list items that they are concerned about, or that might not be done to their satisfaction. We use this list to address the final items on a project to achieve 100% customer satisfaction.

In our contracts, we give our customers the right to carry a 10% retainer until all punchlist items are complete. Meaning, when the project is done, but there are punchlist items to resolve, we collect 90% of the contract value and allow the customer to retain 10% of the balance until the punchlist items are complete.